Dobruja and the Danube Delta

Between the Danube and the Black Sea, Dobruja brings together Greek cities, Roman forts, mosques and fishing villages on the edge of the lagoons. A five-day loop from Constanța, as far as the gateway to the delta.

Romania
Wide open spaces Off the beaten track 4–6 days Spring
A Danube Delta channel, its reeds and willows mirrored in still water.
A Danube Delta channel, its reeds and willows mirrored in still water.

Between the Black Sea and the Danube

The loop starts from Constanța, runs down the coast to Mangalia, crosses the plateau to the river, then heads north towards the delta. You go from fields of wheat and sunflowers to the cliffs of the Danube, then to lagoons lined with reeds. North of Constanța, the road runs through the Fântânele-Cogealac wind farm and its 240 wind turbines.

Further north, the road crosses the Măcin Mountains, small, bare granite mountains that rise out of the plain. From the village of Greci, a path climbs Țuțuiatu, their highest point, at 467 metres.

The heart of the delta has almost no roads. You explore it by boat, from Tulcea or Murighiol, along channels where pelicans live. Navrom scheduled boats run from Tulcea to Sulina, with the old Danube Commission lighthouse, or to the fishing village of Sfântu Gheorghe. Allow at least one night there. Further south, the car stays at the port of Jurilovca and a boat crosses the lagoon to Gura Portiței, a tongue of sand facing the sea.

Trajan’s Trophy at Adamclisi, at the end of its tree-lined avenue.

Greeks and Romans in Dobruja

At Adamclisi, in the middle of the fields, Trajan’s Trophy celebrates Rome’s victory over the Dacians. It was dedicated in AD 109 to Mars Ultor, the avenging god. The monument you see today is a reconstruction from 1977. The museum nearby keeps the original pieces, including 48 of the 54 carved metopes from the monument. Further north, on the Danube, the forts of Capidava and Halmyris guarded the frontier of the Empire.

The Greeks had arrived long before. Settlers from Miletus founded Histria in the 7th century BC: it is the first known town on the territory of present-day Romania. Sand slowly closed off its bay, which became Lake Sinoe. Other Greek cities lined this coast: Tomis, today Constanța; Callatis, today Mangalia; Orgame, above Lake Razim.

Exiled to Tomis by Augustus in AD 8, the poet Ovid spent his last years there, far from Rome. His statue has stood since 1887 in the square that bears his name. Right next to it, the Roman Mosaic Edifice holds a mosaic floor that originally covered nearly 2,000 m². It reopened in November 2025, after three years of work.

Exiled to Tomis by Augustus in AD 8, the poet Ovid spent his last years there, far from Rome.

Tatars, Turks and Lipovans

Dobruja remained Ottoman from the early 15th century until 1878, and Tatars and Turks still live here. In Mangalia, the Esmahan Sultan Mosque, built in 1575, is often described as the oldest in Romania. In Constanța, the Carol I Great Mosque, opened in 1913, has a 47-metre minaret: you climb its 140 steps for a view over the city and the port.

Around the lagoons live the Lipovans, Old Believer Russians. Their ancestors refused the reform of the Russian Church in 1652 and fled their country. They founded Jurilovca at the beginning of the 19th century. The village still lives from fishing.

The church and white staircase of Celic-Dere Monastery.

Celic-Dere Monastery

Frecăței, Tulcea County · 20 minutes off the Tulcea road

An Orthodox convent, in a valley of woods and vineyards. Its large stone church, begun in 1901, was consecrated in 1932. A small museum keeps an icon of the Virgin dated 1600.

Practical notes

When to go
May–June and September. Boats in the delta and to Gura Portiței mostly run from April–May to September–October. Mosquitoes in summer.
Getting there
Constanța is about two and a half hours from Bucharest on the A2 motorway, with a toll bridge over the Danube.
Access
Everything is tarmac, except a six-kilometre track to Orgame, slippery after rain.
Sleeping in a van
Wild camping is banned in the delta reserve and in the Măcin Mountains park: campsites and designated areas only.
Worth knowing
Buy the road vignette (rovinietă) online. Access permit for the delta reserve, lagoons included, at permise.ddbra.ro. The Constanța Casino is closed on Tuesdays; tickets online at bilet.cazinoul.com.
Allow
Five days, plus one or two to spend nights in the delta.
The granite ridges of the Măcin Mountains above the steppe.
The granite ridges of the Măcin Mountains above the steppe.

What not to miss

  1. 1The Constanța CasinoAn Art Nouveau building from 1910 on the cliff, reopened in 2025.
  2. 2Trajan’s TrophyThe monument to the victory over the Dacians, and its metopes in the museum.
  3. 3CapidavaA Roman fort on a rock above the Danube.
  4. 4The delta by boatA morning on the channels from Tulcea or Murighiol.
  5. 5EnisalaA medieval citadel attributed to the Genoese, above Lake Razim.
  6. 6HistriaThe ruins of the oldest known town on Romanian territory, on the shore of Lake Sinoe.

Dobruja and the Danube Delta in pictures

The restored Constanța Casino, on the seafront promenade.

The Dobruja table

Around the delta, people mostly eat fish: ciorbă de pește, a slightly sour soup, saramură, carp grilled in brine with garlic, or plachie, stewed with onions and tomato.

Tatar cooking has left suberek, a fried meat pasty. As for wine, the region has two well-known vineyards: Murfatlar, near Constanța, and Sarica-Niculițel, near Tulcea.

A trip comes with this article

Loop from Constanța

5 days 633 km ≈ 11 h driving
The stages
  1. 1Cazinoul din Constanța · Edificiul Roman cu Mozaic · Marea Moschee din Constanța · Moscheea Esmahan Sultan
  2. 2Tropaeum Traiani · Capidava
  3. 3Pasul Priopcea · Monumentul Eroilor din Razboiul pentru Independenta
+ 2 days
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